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When assembling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred names. But, tucked high among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant part of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

The compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. This recognition has made the proprietors totally shocked.

“I am utterly shocked,” remarks a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their humble shop achieving such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the food, and this eatery more than excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate outside its own premises. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.